Posts in GUIDES
How A Bomber Jacket Should Fit
Bomber Jacket & Jeans : Pepe Jeans London 

Bomber Jacket & Jeans : Pepe Jeans London 

With roots in the military (created for WWI bombing pilots, hence the name) and the masculine shape, to back up its historically stylish and practical features — chiefly comfort, warmth, and ease of movement — the bomber jacket is a traditional all-year round essential in menswear. Widely considered the jacket of the season, the bomber comes in a wide variety of versatile textures and styling options, easily suiting all tastes and seasonal conditions, from lightweight waxed cotton for spring/summer to exceptionally warm, fully lined leather or suede classics, that can handle the harshest winters thrown their way. However despite all its advances and easy styling options, getting the fit of a bomber jacket right can be a tricky thing to get right, especially with its unconventional shape. I found mine from Pepe Jeans Loncon and I really love it. 

Overall Fit of Bomber Jacket

The fit of any piece of outerwear, bomber included, is really important, as it’s the piece that can make or break an outfit. Needing enough space to layer over a range of outfits, while being close enough keep you warm and, well, not look like a sack – a bomber’s fit is just as important as any other piece of clothing. Whether you’re going for a classic bomber jacket shape or a longline design, it’s important that you’re working with a jacket that looks its best and complements your body type.

Shoulders

It’s universally agreed that the most crucial aspect to a perfectly fitted jacket lies first and foremost in the shoulders. If they don’t naturally fit then the jacket is a loss, as even if you’re going for an oversized style, baggy shoulders is never a good look. In this case, the fit is the same as any other jacket and it’s important that it carefully frames your shoulders, giving you a smooth, clean look. To double check that your jacket is perfectly fitted around your shoulders make sure you’re following these basic rules.

Torso

Bomber jackets tend to be a little less streamlined than conventional jackets, with the traditional, durable style focusing on a more statement, padded look. However this ‘bulkier’ look is generally created by the materials used, with the leather outing and inner lining causing a heavier finish, and on the whole, you want to go for a fairly fitted look so you don’t run the risk of looking swamped. Because of the cropped design of the jacket, you want to create a flattering V-shape when you have it zipped up, with the padded edge fitting closely around your torso. The easiest way to tell if your jacket fits properly in the waist is to try it on and see how much excess material hangs on each side and underneath your arms. Anything sticking out more than an inch on either side should be considered as being too bulky so you should opt for a smaller size. Chest wise, it should fit comfortably slim, with little to no added weight. You want something that will be form fitting whether zipped up or left open. Length wise, unless you’re going for a modern long line design your bomber jacket should land on the top of your trousers, or just above, in order to elongate the appearance of both your torso and legs in a subtle way.

Collar

One of the distinctive features of a flight jacket is the knitted collar that frames the neck, contrasting to the chunkier look of the jacket itself. Originally added in to protect the wearer from the high altitude winds, it’s now a distinctive part of the look, so it’s important that it fits correctly. The collar generally extends up a little, giving a clean, streamlined look that encompasses the neck. Don’t go for a design that goes too high up the neck as you want to gain a flattering, complementary look, but not get a roll neck finish.

Sleeves

If you’re going for a more striking, padded design made from a thick material and an inner lining, your sleeves are generally going to be a little bulkier to match with the rest of the jacket. However, if you’re going for a more slim fit nylon design it’s important to make sure your sleeves are fitted and have the right amount of stretch. Bomber jacket sleeves have a unique design, with each one ending in a knitted cuff that fits snugly around your wrist. Each sleeve should end on or just above your wrist bone, with conventional designs showing a clean contrast in size between the main part of the sleeves and the cuff.

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How to transition your wardrobe from Summer to Autumn!
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It is that time of year when once again we all have to put our summer garments to the side and make way for something warmer.  For some of us this may be a sigh of relief knowing that hot sultry days are truly over – for the time being at least. For the style buffs among us there’s no time like the season changeover; this period instantly reminds us of new garments, different colours and a range of exciting and fresh combinations to exhibit amongst our respective entourage.

The Transitional Season

Trending with something new is key in order to revive our outfits with new vigour, and the Gagliardi seasonal theme serves as an excellent inspirational backdrop against which to set personal preferences and step out boldly to face the Autumn with confidence.

Step 1: Change your colour tones

This season’s blues come in different shades from the lightest to the darkest and serve well as a base colour from which to start building an outfit. The greys come well matched with burgundy, navy or brown.  Traditional autumnal browns are encapsulated between checks, stripes and paisley prints.

Step 2: Opt for Warmer Accessories

Dazzle up your evenings in pre-winter style; add the first tie or bow-tie of the season to the shirt collar, selecting colours that speak of falling leaves, muted sunsets, and casual elegance. Think of the typical Tuscan country gentleman and embellish each outfit accordingly as any truly Gagliardi gentleman would.Try incorporating this by making a shirt and tie replacement during weekdays, pairing these with twill chinos and a rain coat. Then opt for a puffer jacket or chunky shawl neck cardigan at the weekend.

Step 3: Layer Up

Proceed to include waistcoats; these are a smart and are easily exchangeable with different shirts and trousers. While an embellished wrap-around scarf could be enough for those slightly colder mornings, the waistcoat can become an indispensable part of the layering process. This allows for shedding off layers as the day proceeds and adding them back on for the evening out. Remember that even the most casual of outfits will look smarter and unique with the inclusion of a well-fitted waistcoat.

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CHOOSING THE BEST SUNGLASSES FOR YOUR FACE SHAPE

Picking out the ideal sunglasses for your face shape isn’t as easy as you might think. There are frames that work to set off your killer features, and there are frames that… don’t.

So how do you know which shades are right for you? First, you’ll need to figure out whether your face is round, oval, heart, or square. We suggest asking a friend. Once you’ve found your face shape, then you can begin picking sunglasses that will complement your features. Lucky for you, we made a guide. Read on to find the perfect pair of sunglasses for your face shape.

1. Heart Shape Face

The narrowest point of a heart-shaped face is the jawline. Any frames that are wider on the top than in the bottom work better. Below you can find some pairs that I have personal choose for you guys!

2. Round Shape Face

A round face is widest across the cheekbones and more narrow at the forehead and jawline. Oversized, rectangular and angular frames set off roundness. Below you can find as well some pairs that will fit perfectly to a round shape face. 

3. Oval Shape Face

An oval face is longer than it is wide and is the most versatile face shape, which means you can pull off round or square frames. Keep proportion in mind and try to find the right size for your face. Speaking of oval shape faces, I am the king of those. My face have exactly that shape so below I will link you the sunglasses that I am lately. 

4.  Square Shape Face

This face has a strong jaw, wide forehead and wide cheekbones. To soften those features choose sunnies with soft lines. As always below you will find some styles you can choose from.

I hope you guys enjoyed my tips on how to choose the best sunglasses for your face shape.

Do not hesitate to contact me about anything! I will continue sharing fashion tips so any request is welcome.

Cheers,

P.

Simple rules to choose the right tie

Steps

1. Understand the various parts of the tie. Knowing a quality tie when you spot it, is dependent on knowing what you should look for. The following elements of the tie are things to check:

  • Look at the lining of the tie. The purpose of the lining is to make tying the tie easier and to prevent it from wrinkling. The lining should be made from 100 percent wool. The more gold bars on the lining, the heavier the lining.
  • Feel and look at the fabric of the tie. If you're after silk (the ideal tie fabric), make sure it is by feeling it. Silk is smooth; other fabrics mimicking silk tend to feel brittle. A quality tie will be made from three pieces of fabric, while a cheaper one will be made from only two.
  • Check for hand rolling: A hand-rolled and hand-stitched hem keeps a much better shape than a machine-made one.
  • Look for the slip stitch. This can be pulled to gather the tie together. This helps to maintain the shape of the tie.
  • Note the bar tack. This is the piece that supplements the slip stitch and keeps the two ends of the tie from separating.

2. Size it up. Pick a tie that hits the top of your belt buckle and measures between 2¼ and 4 inches (5.5cm - 10cm) wide.

  • For a classic look, choose a width that corresponds to the width of your jacket’s lapel.
  • A tie should not be too loose or too tight; both ends of the spectrum are incredibly uncomfortable, so be sure it fits well around your neck.

3. Remember textures. Wear wool ties with tweed or heavyweight jackets, and silk ties with business suits. For a deeper color quality on silk ties, make sure they’re woven, rather than screened.

4. Match colors. When it comes to colors, there are literally thousands of colors available in mens' bow ties, striped ties and paisley ties, more than you can imagine. First of all, you have to decide which color of tie will go with your overall attire and the occasion. Select a tie that has the colors of your suit and shirt as well as at least one other color to provide an accent. For formal occasions, choose a solid colored tie that’s darker than your shirt.

  • A solid tie is the most versatile of all neckties because it is appropriate with everything.
  • A dark tie is appropriate for business wear. Pairing it with a khaki or blue shirt evokes military uniform authority.[3]
  • A black tie goes with everything and is suitable for all occasions from funerals to work. It's also ideal for hiding stains.
  • Younger men, or men living in warmer climates, tend to prefer colorful ties (and shirts).[4]
  • Look for a tie that goes well with your dress shirt. This tie will be kept for best. Make sure it has a nice balance or color to it so that it looks good.

5. Look in the mirror. Frame your face. If you have dark hair and a dark complexion, go with a bright tie; if you’re fair, choose a darker tie. If your hair and skin tone contrast, wear a tie that contrasts with your skin tone.

6. Match patterns. As with the colors, there are different patterns too available in the various online tie stores. Always determine the occasion before buying a patterned tie; since wedding is a formal affair, a formal solid color tie is the best option to go with. Pick a pattern that complements your outfit. If your shirt’s pattern is pronounced, choose a subtle tie; if your shirt is muted, your tie can be a bit flashier. The following pattern information is helpful to know:

  • Repeat pattern: This is the most common style of tie and includes paisley, shapes, animals, workplace logos, rope patterns, and more.
  • Dots: The smaller the dot on the tie, the more formal the tie is. Be wary of large polka-dots because these can come across as clown-like.
  • Striped: These are known as rep or regimental ties. They originated in the need to display the colors of British clubs or army regiments. In Britain, the stripes run from high left to low right, while in America, the stripes run from high right to low left. Just to be different, of course.
  • Woven: A woven tie is usually produced only in one color. The weave texture is the pattern. One example is silk grenadine. Woven silk ties are considered formal and conservative.
  • Checks: Checked ties make a bold statement. This can be toned down however, with the addition of a checked shirt or tones that match up with the checkers

7. Stay classy. Thanks to the latest fashion trends, even men are getting numerous styles in accessories which are also true for the neckties. There are traditional ties with a broader formation and this is best for the men who are broad shouldered and muscular. When in doubt, stay subtle; while a tie can be the focal point of an outfit, it’s an accessory and shouldn’t pull the focus away from you.

8. Take care with weekend wear. The addition of a tie to casual weekend wear is something to be done with discretion. You don't want to dress it up too much as casual shirts aren't supposed to look as if they're about to go to the office or the annual director's dinner. The way around this is to wear a simple, classic tie over casual shirts with a simple but bold pattern. To go really casual, wear a plain t-shirt (or one with a subtle design) with a loose tie.

 

Tips

  • Seek to have at least one tie that defines you.
  • If you wear a striped tie and striped shirt, make sure the stripes are different sizes. Avoid mixing patterns that are too similar. For example, a thin-striped shirt should be accompanied by a bold-striped tie.
  • If wearing a heavier shirt, such as suede or corduroy, wear an equally heavier fabric or textured tie, preferably in a dark color. This can come across as very professional or academic.
  • Try to avoid wearing pattern on pattern. Exceptions are sometimes if one pattern is very subtle, and the other pattern is bold, drawing attention away from the subtle pattern.
  • Did you know? The French popularized the necktie in the 17th century after seeing it on Croatian soldiers during the Thirty Years War.
  • Ties can also be worn as belts, headbands, pocket squares and a watchband. In a pinch they can also be used as a baggage strap, a tourniquet or arm sling, a loincloth, a lanyard, and a whole lot of craft uses when they're no longer wanted.
  • Knit ties should not be hung; they should rolled up like a pair of socks because this prevents them from stretching.

Warnings

  • Avoid novelty ties — though they can provide a festive look, they’re more likely to be distracting.
  • Be careful when purchasing ties from mail order. They may not be of the best quality.
Simple rules to choose the right shoe!

The last thing I want to hear again in this world is the stereotype that men do not care about shoes, or that all women do. Men have to choose thoughtfully their shoes. It's the only thing women will notice on the first date and your future boss will notice it too. 

Here are some simple general rules on how to choose the right shoe with the right outfit. 

1. Try to pick a shoe that matches, or is darker than your pants.

2. Although it is a safe bet, socks do not need to match your shoes. Instead, think of your socks as you would a tie - an item that can bring bring the whole outfit together.

3. If wearing a belt, try to match your shoes to it, unless of course, your belt is some multi-colored striped thing.

4. With your jeans, you can wear almost any color or style of shoe but avoid very shiny shoes that were obviously intended for more dressier outfits.  Boots, lug soles, sneakers, loafers and sandals all work great with jeans, so you may find it helpful to let the style of your shirt guide you. 

5. For casual pants there are a variety of loafers, oxford and other men's shoes that work well with them. Let the ornamentation and style of the shoe guide you towards the look you're trying to achieve. 

6. With dress pants, shoot for the same type of shoe that you might wear with a suit. Shinier materials usually indicate a dressier shoe, as do less bulky heels and soles. Choose a shoe that is the same color or darker than your pants, and if wearing a belt, match your shoes to it.

Color matching is a big deal too. Below you will find my 4 simple tips on how to color match your outfit with your shoes. Follow them, dress up and impress! 

i) Black shoes work well with navy, grey or black pants.

ii) Brown shoes are best suited to tan, brown, beige, greens, other darker earth tones.

iii) Burgundy shoes work well with khaki, lighter browns, blue and grey.

iv) Tan shoes look great with lighter earth tones, blue, beige, lighter tan or white.

 

CHECK OUT THE BELOW SHOE BRANDS:

www.santonishoes.com 

www.fratellirossetit.com

www.ludwig-reiter.com

How to Build Your Wardrobe Part II

1. The Foundation Suits

Every man should own at least one suit or equivalent garment in accordance with his heritage.  It should be pressed, clean, and ready to go at a moment’s notice.  I have a client who works as a computer programmer; although he wears the shirts and trousers we made for him daily, he rarely wears his custom suit as his Microsoft office has a relaxed dress code.  Two years ago he had the opportunity to attend a dinner with Bill Gates; he was given 6 hours notice and it was at one of the fanciest hotels in town.  When opportunity presented itself, he was prepared and seized it; the sad part is many of his colleagues missed the chance because they didn’t even own a jacket.

If you own only one suit, ensure 1) it fits, 2) its dark in color, and 3) its timeless in style.  To ensure proper fit, first learn what it is and then find a tailor who can alter your suit.  Dark colors are important as they are the most formal and are more versatile than lighter shades.  And by timeless style, I mean you should be weary of trends like skinny or overly thick lapels, suits with more than 3 buttons, or with signature style aspects that look good to you today but will not stand the test of time (that dragon embroidery on the shoulder is a bit too much).  Most men look sharp in a charcoal grey, single breasted, 2 or 3 button jacket with double vents and 3 pockets (2 side flap, one left breast).  Your trousers should be made from the same fabric as the suit and if pleated have a cuff or if flat fronted, have none.

2. The Core Dress Shirts

The core dress shirts in a man’s wardrobe should fit him and be simple in design.  The first three dress shirts in your wardrobe should be solid in color (white or a shade of blue, the darker the less formal).  When looking at style, look for point collars and cuffs that fit the image you are trying to present.  I love French cuffs, but for most men they are not a style they’ll use enough in their first set of shirts to justify their purchase.  Instead, keep it simple with single barrel cuffs.  As for fit, ensure the shoulders and neck are as close to perfect as you can find.  Remember that every brand has a different set of models they use to design their clothing’s sizes, so a medium in one brand does not mean you’ll have the same fit in another.  And if you have to compromise, purchase a larger fit.  Sleeves can be shortened and stomach fabric can be tucked; making a shirt bigger though is not an option.

3. Footwear for Men: Your First Dress Shoes & Boots

The first pair of dress shoes a man owns should be black in color; the second pair can be either black or brown, with the determining factor being the color of the suits in his wardrobe.  Black is more formal and less interesting but more versatile.  Dark brown shoes, assuming their style matches, can be worn with any outfit except black tie. As to style, look to own at least one pair of plain or cap toe oxfords, and a pair of slip-ons for when you travel.  Slip-on styles such as Chelsea boots and monk straps are great for moving through airport security with ease, although they are less formal than their laced brethren.

The total number of dress shoes a man should own depends on his needs, but generally speaking he should have at least 3 to 4 pairs that he can rotate through.  Rotation is important because while your shoes rest with cedar shoe trees inserted, the wood draws out inner moisture and reshapes the leather which will lengthen the life off all of your shoes considerably.  And always brush away dirt after every wear and shine and polish when needed or after wearing them 3 times.  If you live in an areas with heavy snow and rain learn how to weatherproof your shoes.   Finally, avoid attention grabbing colors and shoes made from materials that require heavy maintenance and are limited as to when you can wear them.  Although blue suede shoes make for a good song, they are not for rough winters where salt and water can quickly cause irreparable damage. Also avoid footwear manufactured with extreme square toes or made from shoddy leather and with poor construction.

4. Building Your Tie Collection

When you wear a necktie, you want it to compliment your outfit, not dominate the conversation.  As for the number of ties in a man’s wardrobe, I recommend three neckties for every suit.  Classic tie colors include blue, green, reds, and gold while classic patterns are striped, dot, plaid, club, foulard, and paisley – start with simple solids and stripes; when you move past a half dozen ties in your wardrobe you can start purchasing brighter and more complex patterned neckwear.  Here is a great guide on how to match a tie with a shirt and suit.

How to Build Your Wardrobe Part I
Total outfits by Tod's

Total outfits by Tod's

5 Wardrobe Building Guidelines for Men

Master interchangeability – The secret of the best dressed men is that they wear clothing that neither draws attention nor strikes observers as flamboyant; they are simply well put together.  The good news is this can be achieved with very few sets of clothes, and if selected carefully a man with only two suits, four dress shirts, four ties, and two pairs of shoes has 64 different combinations at his disposal (2x4x4x2=64 ).  The key here is making sure your clothing is interchangeable; a core of classic colored suits and dress shirts complimented with time tested tie patterns will yield a higher return on investment than any trendy garment that only matches one other item in your wardrobe.

Make sure your clothing fits – The clothing in your wardrobe should fit your body as it is today not as you wish it to be two months from now.  If it’s too tight, look to have it let out.  If it’s too large, learn to how to select a tailor and have alterations made.

Select classic colors, patterns, and styles – There are colors that compliment your complexion; discover what they are and use them to your advantage.  Look for patterns that existed when your father bought his clothing – chances are they’ll still be around when your son borrows your ties. Always select timeless style in your high dollar items and avoid trends like the plague.

Avoid cheap, instead seek value – Purchase quality; you’ll often pay more but in the end it will save you money.  How does that work?  Simply put, you’ll wear the clothing more often, feel better when you wear it, and it will last longer.  Those $35 dress shoes that you hate wearing because they look cheap and are uncomfortable are wasted sitting in your closet; those $350 Allen Edmonds that you wear every chance you can and receive compliments on every time you wear them become a great investment when you find yourself having worn them 100 times in the last year.

Give yourself time – Building a wardrobe can take a decade; the time frame is important as it not only gives you time to select items that are priced in accordance with your budget, but it gives you the time to develop and refine your style.  No matter how much you read and plan, a man’s style evolves over years as he perfects his personal presentation to the world.